INDIA, INCREDIBLE!

A TRAVELOGUE.

 It is definitely exciting to explore the lengths and breadths of a country which is as good as a sub-continent. Bharat Darshan had some key academic objectives in mind, like appreciating the diversity in India, sensitizing ourselves to the problems of various sections of the society and observing the good administrative practices.

But giving a deeper thought, it was more of an opportunity to study the idea of India in nuances, by observing places and people. It was an exercise to see how the fabric of India is woven using such diverse threads. It was more about the people of India and less about the places. I would divide my experience about the people and places of India in four parts.

       

    WINDS OF THE ORIENT.

Bihar had a very different perception in my mind. Maybe it was the hangover of the image of Bihar in 90’s. But today’s Bihar, I found was very much different. Some hampering issues were still there but the state was progressing. And people wanted to develop, throwing away the social evils. Even the backward and LWE infested areas like Jamui showed the winds of changes.

            Buddha forms an integral part of the culture of Bihar. Patna has a superbly designed Buddha Smriti Park, recounting the life and times of Buddha. Further, Bodh Gaya has a spiritual aura of its own. One really feels the serenity under the pacifying shade of Bodhi Vriksha. Buddha’s life teaches many valuable lessons for a budding Civil Servant, most important being the readiness to denounce all the glory to serve people.

            Bihar still maintains its rustic charm. People here are deeply rooted in their land, their values. It is really enticing to hear many countryside languages like Magadhi, Bhojpuri, Maithili, Santhali in same region. It will be great to see if Bihar moves ahead on path of development and yet keeps this genuinely rural touch alive.

            Our next destination, West Bengal looks quite different. Bengal has two identities: Food and industrious, straight-forward people. In Durgapur we witnessed how Bengal works hard without being showy.  Especially, the work ethic and professionalism of Durgapur Steel Plant helped us come over our prejudices about PSUs.

            Kolkata is the dream city in this part of India. This metro city has its own enigma, its own culture. The trams, small and congested lanes, street food, Kaali ghat, Park Street- everything just gives this city a different aura. It was fun welcoming New Year in the Roshogulla city.

    THE NORTH-EASTERN EXPEDITION.

Before visiting the land of Brahmaputra, hills and greenery, I had many presumptions and perceptions about North-east India. But just one day here, and the perception totally changed. I found North-east very soothing and happy in its own world. It may be backward given the traditional definitions of development, but the quality of life here is good, given the scenic environment and near absence of the hustle-bustle of urban congestions. There was tension in the air at some places like Kakopather, Tinsukia (Assam) and Kamalang (Arunachal Pradesh), but the situation was well under control.

            We got to interact with local tribals only a few times. But they were happy with their indigenous lifestyle and local traditions. They were quite satisfied ignoring and being ignored by the so called Mainstream. We met a few Mishmis, Bodos, Khasis and Chakmas. Despite being from different locations, they had common threads of deep connection with values and traditions. They all have a different tale to tell.

            Situation varied in different states. In Arunachal, people preferred a conventional happy go lucky way of life while in Meghalaya they were more modernized.  Tripura was like Bengal but with more innovation and entrepreneurship. Assam stood out of all these seven sisters, having a huge market, vibrant social life and a cosmopolitan culture, along with the Brahmaputra and the Rhinos. Especially Guwahati is a perfect example of coexistence despite huge variety, albeit India in microcosm.

            Major part of our stay in North-east was spent in Army attachment. It was indeed an emotional high for all of us. Army has tremendous respect in mind and heart of every single Indian. But is an entirely different thing to hear and read the stories of valour of Army, and to actually feel it in the tough ground scenario.

Army differs a lot from Air Force and Navy. Air Force attachment at Shillong helped us appreciate that it was all about precision, technical know-how and proactive decision making. But Army was about strenuous physical labour. Our attachment with 2 Mountain Division started with a low profile administrative headquarters visit. But slowly and steadily, the intensity, excitement and respect for Army went on increasing.

            The exercises we undertook with Army jawans like Road Opening Party demonstration, Ambush, Sentry duty helped us sensitize with the ground realities that an average jawan faced. We stayed in the dormitories with jawans and had food with them in mess. This gave us ample opportunity to interact with them. Most of them were happy serving the nation but were worried about their families. They have just a simple expectation from Civil Servants- To help their families back home if a difficulty arrives. This wasn’t a very huge expectation. It was all about getting the basics right in Civil administration. Can’t we do even this thing to ensure that the jawan serves on the border without any worry about his family?

            We explored the valley of Lohit and the Mishmi Hills to visit many strategic points like Walong, Kibithu, Hayauliang, Salangam and above all Dichu- last post of Indian Army near LAC. At LAC the situation was really tough. Hats off to jawans of Indian Army and ITBP who protect the nation despite rough terrain, erratic connectivity and harsh weather.

            However the climactic point of our Army attachment was witnessing the legend of the battle of Walong. Even after more than fifty years after the 1962 war, this battle represents the story of valour and sacrifice, the tale of fearless patriots. It was an honour to visit the sacred battlefield at Namti plains. Our feelings had no words. Perhaps the signboard at the Helmet top gave a vent to our emotions, which said, “The Indian soldiers lacked everything, but guts”. The hills and streams here are still silent witnesses of this feat of bravery. They still exude the pride for their brave sons, and carry the fragrance of their fearless sacrifice…

    TROPICAL WAVES.

After witnessing the shivering cold of the Ganges plains and the North-East India, we felt a sudden change in weather as we reached Andamans. It was pleasant to find warmth of the tropical the month of January.

            Any first time visitors would imagine Port Blair as an undeveloped, sparsely populated tribal town lacking infrastructure. But in the very first sight, Port Blair sprang up a huge surprise. It is just like any other town in India, with far better infrastructure. Roads, parks, streetlights give it a Mauritius-like feel.

            We didn’t find any tribal as such, except a few who had adopted modern day urban lifestyle. People we encountered were mostly Tamils, Bengalis and a few from northern India. Entire Port Blair economy was run by these people. And the tribals were happily aloof into the forests, mostly on the Nicobar group of islands.

            Andaman islands truly represented India’s picturesque aspect. And the icing on the cake was Havelock island. One immediately falls in love with the charming scenery here. Crystal clear sea water reflecting the azure sky is indeed a visual delight. A special mention must be made of Radhanagar beach. This unblemished beach seems resplendent in sunlight. It can easily be compared with the beaches of Maldives or Hawaai.

            Havelock is also well known for Scuba Diving. It was a great experience for me to fight my inner demons and get a view of the world underwater. It might be theoretically the lowest point of my life- walking on seabed a few metres below the sea-level, but metaphorically, I count it as the high point, the pinnacle of my simple life. Scuba diving, snorkeling, water sports can contribute to local economy as well as add up to the promotional value of this otherwise lesser known tourist spot.

            In Naval attachment, the biggest lesson was to master the available information and apply resources effectively. The Naval establishment in Port Blair had a humongous task to keep watch over the endless blue waters. Their vigilance and hard work makes it possible to transform this otherwise difficult location into fascination of a tourist.

            Andaman lives up to its expectation as a tourist hotspot, with tourists all over the nation enjoying the scenic ambience. Cellular jail, Neil island, Ross island, Mt. Harriet and of course Havelock island are prime destinations. However the safety and security of tourists were not given due attention. There were no emergency medical facilities near the Scuba Diving spot. Further there was neglect of the issue of crocodile menace on the beaches. These things must be taken care of in order to bolster the reputation of Andamans as a tourist attraction.

            The weather stayed almost the same as we entered Chennai. The city known for Filter Coffee, T nagar market, Kancheepuram silk, Lungis, Marina beach, Ritchie’s street, jewellery shops, humid breezes, large posters…. Chennai is fun!! It’s a place to be for a foodie with ample variety in food. It was pure bliss to enjoy the mountains of rice and fountains of Sambar!!

            The Republic day ceremony at Chennai was true representative of the political culture there. The politics here essentially dwindles between two poles. And both the poles are happy to maintain larger than life images. I was surprised to see how this well developed state still personifies and centralizes its administrative set-up around a single pole.

    

    DAYS IN THE DECCAN.

Deccan plateau feels like home to me. I have been born and brought up in this region of Godawari and Krishna. It was a great opportunity for me to visit this region in the last leg of our journey across India. This allowed me to compare my region with other parts of India with the help of learnings I acquired. The Deccan odyssey started with Bengaluru.

Bengaluru is called the fifth metro of India. It is a city where life is on wheels, having a tempo of its own. This city can be a case study in status of major urban places in India. Congestion in traffic, diminishing greenery, impure air- the former garden city and present IT city has all the issues related to urbanization.

Bengaluru is a hub for NGOs. NGOs are fast approaching the status of partners in development, and not merely supplementary agencies. NGO-Government relationship is crucial in the coming times in context of development dynamics. Janaagraha was one such NGO which was doing commendable job for increasing quality of life in urban areas, in the era of hustle bustle of urban life.

A pleasant diversion from the urban rush was Akshay Patra Foundation, which contributed to MDMS programme with all dedication and compassion. This NGO has shown us the way to approach social issues in a professional, yet humane way.

            Another agency operating with such humane approach was the Society for Elimination of Rural Poverty (SERP) in Hyderabad. They truly understood the concept of “empowerment”. This was evident in our field visits to Mahila Samakhya Mandals in Mahbubnagar district. The most defining moment of our understanding of empowerment was when a simple woman Rukminiamma stood up to talk confidently about her journey and few drops of tears trickled down from her wrinkled eyes. These were the tears of achievement and rejoice.

                        We also had our moment of rejoice when we met our FC colleagues in Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel National Police Academy. They were fitter, and a little bruised by the hard schedule. But this is what NPA is. In our formal attachment with NPA, we understood the importance of discipline and balance in administration.

            Balance is what even Hyderabad taught me. This city is doing a balancing act with heritage and hi-tech generation. On one hand Hyderabad still carries the hangover of the Nizam regime. The Golconda fort, Char Minar, Masjids and the administrative legacy of Nizam are demonstrative of the old days. On the other side, it is fast developing into an IT destination with new generation high-end technology. Despite the simmering tensions on issue of a new state, Hyderabad had a different charm.

            Another city facing the same tension was Vijaywada, the would be capital post bifurcation of the state. The cultural hub of Andhra had its own specialities like handloom market, scenic surroundings, Ghonghura, seafood etc. Vijaywada was truly a city on fast-track.

            Nanded was equally competent to be awarded the same fast track title. This city was a perfect example of how a big challenge also brings with it an opportunity to improve the system. On occasion of the Guru ta Gaddi festival, the administration grabbed the fortuity to redevelop Nanded city and make it a trendsetter.

            It was more than coincidence that we started our journey from Patna’s Harmandir Sahib, the birthplace of Guru Gobind Singhji and finished it at the place where he left for the heavenly abode, Nanded. The Takhat Sachkhand Shri Huzur Sahib Gurudwara is the real identity of modern day Nanded. The pious Gurudwara stands tall as an example of well-administered religious institution. Because of effective management, the Gurudwara maintains its divine peace and sanctity amidst the blitz of the city life, with occasional roars of “Waaheguru da Khaalsa, Waaheguru di Fateh” roaring into the skies.

SUMMING IT UP…

India is a mammoth and complex entity. This journey helped me to understand the idea of India. The diversity and the common socio-economic underpinnings make India a very complex idea. Many factors help to weave the fabric: progressive thought, nationalism, developmental thought, armed forces, movies, cricket and many such linking pins keep the binding intact. At the end of this tour, I was able to appreciate this idea of India, which is made up diverse elements, yet having the oneness in it.

            I found many lessons and learnings which are worth giving a thought. Common sense works big time in India. It is the X-factor which drives India. Small innovations and jugaads help Indians to cope with scarce resources. Many times small, frugal initiatives work in a better way than grand schemes. Street-smartness is must for a grassroots administrator. Innovation and entrepreneurship are the buzzwords of modern day and future India.

            At the same time, India maintains its links with the past in terms of its heritage. India stands tall in heritage. This heritage is not merely about buildings and architecture, it is more about the link with history and traditions. It forms an inherent and indispensible part of our culture. It is the proof that India has preserved the unbroken thread of human history.

Talking of culture, one must understand the influence of religion. Religion runs through the very fabric of this nation. And the values of secularism and tolerance run parallel to it. No wonder religion is an indispensible part of administration too. Understanding religion helps to address the cultural diversity.

The other side of diversity is that India is still home to many disparities, at social, economic, political and geographical levels. Of these disparities, the urban-rural divide is prominently visible. Both urban and rural sector need different strategies to develop. Countryside needs empowerment, while the cities need management. The triumph of democracy is what India needs.

            The most important takeaway for me was that perceptions and prejudices must be kept aside in a humongous entity. These perceptions, if at all, will get shattered once we get a true feel of India. It is impossible to build a perception or a generalization because of the diversity India owns. And it is this diversity that makes India truly incredible.

The amazing journey of 8 weeks took me right from the heartland of Ganga-Brahmaputra plains to the easternmost hills, from the islands of Andaman and Nicobar to deep the Deccan plateau. It made me appreciate that India will always be the civilization that will be identified with its culture, tolerance and democracy. India is that land where, the children of tomorrow will be part of a fast emerging global power, and yet will be linked to the glorious past of the mankind. This fact is actually the core identity of our own India, the Incredible India!!

Photos: Frank Noble A.