A TRAVELOGUE.
It is definitely exciting to explore
the lengths and breadths of a country which is as good as a sub-continent. Bharat
Darshan had some key academic objectives in mind, like appreciating the
diversity in India, sensitizing ourselves to the problems of various sections
of the society and observing the good administrative practices.
But giving a deeper thought, it was
more of an opportunity to study the idea of India in nuances, by observing
places and people. It was an exercise to see how the fabric of India is woven
using such diverse threads. It was more about the people of India and less
about the places. I would divide my experience about the people and places of
India in four parts.
WINDS OF THE ORIENT.
Bihar had a very different perception
in my mind. Maybe it was the hangover of the image of Bihar in 90’s. But
today’s Bihar, I found was very much different. Some hampering issues were
still there but the state was progressing. And people wanted to develop,
throwing away the social evils. Even the backward and LWE infested areas like
Jamui showed the winds of changes.
Buddha
forms an integral part of the culture of Bihar. Patna has a superbly designed
Buddha Smriti Park, recounting the life and times of Buddha. Further, Bodh Gaya
has a spiritual aura of its own. One really feels the serenity under the
pacifying shade of Bodhi Vriksha. Buddha’s life teaches many valuable lessons
for a budding Civil Servant, most important being the readiness to denounce all
the glory to serve people.
Bihar
still maintains its rustic charm. People here are deeply rooted in their land,
their values. It is really enticing to hear many countryside languages like
Magadhi, Bhojpuri, Maithili, Santhali in same region. It will be great to see
if Bihar moves ahead on path of development and yet keeps this genuinely rural
touch alive.
Our
next destination, West Bengal looks quite different. Bengal has two identities:
Food and industrious, straight-forward people. In Durgapur we witnessed how
Bengal works hard without being showy. Especially, the work ethic and professionalism
of Durgapur Steel Plant helped us come over our prejudices about PSUs.
Kolkata
is the dream city in this part of India. This metro city has its own enigma,
its own culture. The trams, small and congested lanes, street food, Kaali ghat,
Park Street- everything just gives this city a different aura. It was fun
welcoming New Year in the Roshogulla city.
THE NORTH-EASTERN EXPEDITION.
Before visiting the land of
Brahmaputra, hills and greenery, I had many presumptions and perceptions about
North-east India. But just one day here, and the perception totally changed. I
found North-east very soothing and happy in its own world. It may be backward
given the traditional definitions of development, but the quality of life here
is good, given the scenic environment and near absence of the hustle-bustle of
urban congestions. There was tension in the air at some places like Kakopather,
Tinsukia (Assam) and Kamalang (Arunachal Pradesh), but the situation was well
under control.
We
got to interact with local tribals only a few times. But they were happy with
their indigenous lifestyle and local traditions. They were quite satisfied
ignoring and being ignored by the so called Mainstream. We met a few Mishmis, Bodos,
Khasis and Chakmas. Despite being from different locations, they had common
threads of deep connection with values and traditions. They all have a
different tale to tell.
Situation
varied in different states. In Arunachal, people preferred a conventional happy
go lucky way of life while in Meghalaya they were more modernized. Tripura was like Bengal but with more innovation
and entrepreneurship. Assam stood out of all these seven sisters, having a huge
market, vibrant social life and a cosmopolitan culture, along with the
Brahmaputra and the Rhinos. Especially Guwahati is a perfect example of
coexistence despite huge variety, albeit India in microcosm.
Major
part of our stay in North-east was spent in Army attachment. It was indeed an
emotional high for all of us. Army has tremendous respect in mind and heart of
every single Indian. But is an entirely different thing to hear and read the
stories of valour of Army, and to actually feel it in the tough ground
scenario.
Army differs a lot from Air Force and
Navy. Air Force attachment at Shillong helped us appreciate that it was all
about precision, technical know-how and proactive decision making. But Army was
about strenuous physical labour. Our attachment with 2 Mountain Division
started with a low profile administrative headquarters visit. But slowly and
steadily, the intensity, excitement and respect for Army went on increasing.
The
exercises we undertook with Army jawans like Road Opening Party demonstration,
Ambush, Sentry duty helped us sensitize with the ground realities that an
average jawan faced. We stayed in the dormitories with jawans and had food with
them in mess. This gave us ample opportunity to interact with them. Most of
them were happy serving the nation but were worried about their families. They
have just a simple expectation from Civil Servants- To help their families back
home if a difficulty arrives. This wasn’t a very huge expectation. It was all
about getting the basics right in Civil administration. Can’t we do even this
thing to ensure that the jawan serves on the border without any worry about his
family?
We
explored the valley of Lohit and the Mishmi Hills to visit many strategic
points like Walong, Kibithu, Hayauliang, Salangam and above all Dichu- last
post of Indian Army near LAC. At LAC the situation was really tough. Hats off
to jawans of Indian Army and ITBP who protect the nation despite rough terrain,
erratic connectivity and harsh weather.
However
the climactic point of our Army attachment was witnessing the legend of the
battle of Walong. Even after more than fifty years after the 1962 war, this
battle represents the story of valour and sacrifice, the tale of fearless
patriots. It was an honour to visit the sacred battlefield at Namti plains. Our
feelings had no words. Perhaps the signboard at the Helmet top gave a vent to
our emotions, which said, “The Indian soldiers lacked everything, but guts”.
The hills and streams here are still silent witnesses of this feat of bravery.
They still exude the pride for their brave sons, and carry the fragrance of their
fearless sacrifice…
TROPICAL WAVES.
After witnessing the shivering cold of
the Ganges plains and the North-East India, we felt a sudden change in weather
as we reached Andamans. It was pleasant to find warmth of the tropical the
month of January.
Any
first time visitors would imagine Port Blair as an undeveloped, sparsely
populated tribal town lacking infrastructure. But in the very first sight, Port
Blair sprang up a huge surprise. It is just like any other town in India, with
far better infrastructure. Roads, parks, streetlights give it a Mauritius-like
feel.
We
didn’t find any tribal as such, except a few who had adopted modern day urban
lifestyle. People we encountered were mostly Tamils, Bengalis and a few from
northern India. Entire Port Blair economy was run by these people. And the tribals
were happily aloof into the forests, mostly on the Nicobar group of islands.
Andaman
islands truly represented India’s picturesque aspect. And the icing on the cake
was Havelock island. One immediately falls in love with the charming scenery
here. Crystal clear sea water reflecting the azure sky is indeed a visual
delight. A special mention must be made of Radhanagar beach. This unblemished
beach seems resplendent in sunlight. It can easily be compared with the beaches
of Maldives or Hawaai.
Havelock
is also well known for Scuba Diving. It was a great experience for me to fight
my inner demons and get a view of the world underwater. It might be
theoretically the lowest point of my life- walking on seabed a few metres below
the sea-level, but metaphorically, I count it as the high point, the pinnacle
of my simple life. Scuba diving, snorkeling, water sports can contribute to
local economy as well as add up to the promotional value of this otherwise lesser
known tourist spot.
In
Naval attachment, the biggest lesson was to master the available information
and apply resources effectively. The Naval establishment in Port Blair had a
humongous task to keep watch over the endless blue waters. Their vigilance and
hard work makes it possible to transform this otherwise difficult location into
fascination of a tourist.
Andaman
lives up to its expectation as a tourist hotspot, with tourists all over the
nation enjoying the scenic ambience. Cellular jail, Neil island, Ross island,
Mt. Harriet and of course Havelock island are prime destinations. However the
safety and security of tourists were not given due attention. There were no
emergency medical facilities near the Scuba Diving spot. Further there was
neglect of the issue of crocodile menace on the beaches. These things must be
taken care of in order to bolster the reputation of Andamans as a tourist
attraction.
The
weather stayed almost the same as we entered Chennai. The city known for Filter
Coffee, T nagar market, Kancheepuram silk, Lungis, Marina beach, Ritchie’s
street, jewellery shops, humid breezes, large posters…. Chennai is fun!! It’s a
place to be for a foodie with ample variety in food. It was pure bliss to enjoy
the mountains of rice and fountains of Sambar!!
The
Republic day ceremony at Chennai was true representative of the political
culture there. The politics here essentially dwindles between two poles. And
both the poles are happy to maintain larger than life images. I was surprised
to see how this well developed state still personifies and centralizes its
administrative set-up around a single pole.
DAYS IN THE DECCAN.
Deccan plateau feels like home to me. I
have been born and brought up in this region of Godawari and Krishna. It was a
great opportunity for me to visit this region in the last leg of our journey
across India. This allowed me to compare my region with other parts of India
with the help of learnings I acquired. The Deccan odyssey started with
Bengaluru.
Bengaluru is called the fifth metro of
India. It is a city where life is on wheels, having a tempo of its own. This
city can be a case study in status of major urban places in India. Congestion
in traffic, diminishing greenery, impure air- the former garden city and
present IT city has all the issues related to urbanization.
Bengaluru is a hub for NGOs. NGOs are
fast approaching the status of partners in development, and not merely
supplementary agencies. NGO-Government relationship is crucial in the coming
times in context of development dynamics. Janaagraha was one such NGO which was
doing commendable job for increasing quality of life in urban areas, in the era
of hustle bustle of urban life.
A pleasant diversion from the urban
rush was Akshay Patra Foundation, which contributed to MDMS programme with all
dedication and compassion. This NGO has shown us the way to approach social
issues in a professional, yet humane way.
Another
agency operating with such humane approach was the Society for Elimination of
Rural Poverty (SERP) in Hyderabad. They truly understood the concept of
“empowerment”. This was evident in our field visits to Mahila Samakhya Mandals
in Mahbubnagar district. The most defining moment of our understanding of
empowerment was when a simple woman Rukminiamma stood up to talk confidently
about her journey and few drops of tears trickled down from her wrinkled eyes.
These were the tears of achievement and rejoice.
We
also had our moment of rejoice when we met our FC colleagues in Sardar
Vallabhbhai Patel National Police Academy. They were fitter, and a little
bruised by the hard schedule. But this is what NPA is. In our formal attachment
with NPA, we understood the importance of discipline and balance in
administration.
Balance
is what even Hyderabad taught me. This city is doing a balancing act with
heritage and hi-tech generation. On one hand Hyderabad still carries the
hangover of the Nizam regime. The Golconda fort, Char Minar, Masjids and the administrative
legacy of Nizam are demonstrative of the old days. On the other side, it is
fast developing into an IT destination with new generation high-end technology.
Despite the simmering tensions on issue of a new state, Hyderabad had a
different charm.
Another
city facing the same tension was Vijaywada, the would be capital post
bifurcation of the state. The cultural hub of Andhra had its own specialities
like handloom market, scenic surroundings, Ghonghura, seafood etc. Vijaywada
was truly a city on fast-track.
Nanded
was equally competent to be awarded the same fast track title. This city was a
perfect example of how a big challenge also brings with it an opportunity to
improve the system. On occasion of the Guru ta Gaddi festival, the
administration grabbed the fortuity to redevelop Nanded city and make it a
trendsetter.
It
was more than coincidence that we started our journey from Patna’s Harmandir
Sahib, the birthplace of Guru Gobind Singhji and finished it at the place where
he left for the heavenly abode, Nanded. The Takhat Sachkhand Shri Huzur Sahib
Gurudwara is the real identity of modern day Nanded. The pious Gurudwara stands
tall as an example of well-administered religious institution. Because of
effective management, the Gurudwara maintains its divine peace and sanctity
amidst the blitz of the city life, with occasional roars of “Waaheguru da
Khaalsa, Waaheguru di Fateh” roaring into the skies.
SUMMING
IT UP…
India is a mammoth and complex entity.
This journey helped me to understand the idea of India. The diversity and the
common socio-economic underpinnings make India a very complex idea. Many
factors help to weave the fabric: progressive thought, nationalism,
developmental thought, armed forces, movies, cricket and many such linking pins
keep the binding intact. At the end of this tour, I was able to appreciate this
idea of India, which is made up diverse elements, yet having the oneness in it.
I
found many lessons and learnings which are worth giving a thought. Common sense
works big time in India. It is the X-factor which drives India. Small
innovations and jugaads help Indians to cope with scarce resources. Many times
small, frugal initiatives work in a better way than grand schemes. Street-smartness
is must for a grassroots administrator. Innovation and entrepreneurship are the
buzzwords of modern day and future India.
At
the same time, India maintains its links with the past in terms of its
heritage. India stands tall in heritage. This heritage is not merely about
buildings and architecture, it is more about the link with history and
traditions. It forms an inherent and indispensible part of our culture. It is
the proof that India has preserved the unbroken thread of human history.
Talking of culture,
one must understand the influence of religion. Religion runs through the very
fabric of this nation. And the values of secularism and tolerance run parallel
to it. No wonder religion is an indispensible part of administration too. Understanding
religion helps to address the cultural diversity.
The other side of
diversity is that India is still home to many disparities, at social, economic,
political and geographical levels. Of these disparities, the urban-rural divide
is prominently visible. Both urban and rural sector need different strategies
to develop. Countryside needs empowerment, while the cities need management.
The triumph of democracy is what India needs.
The
most important takeaway for me was that perceptions and prejudices must be kept
aside in a humongous entity. These perceptions, if at all, will get shattered
once we get a true feel of India. It is impossible to build a perception or a
generalization because of the diversity India owns. And it is this diversity
that makes India truly incredible.
The amazing journey
of 8 weeks took me right from the heartland of Ganga-Brahmaputra plains to the
easternmost hills, from the islands of Andaman and Nicobar to deep the Deccan
plateau. It made me appreciate that India will always be the civilization that
will be identified with its culture, tolerance and democracy. India is that
land where, the children of tomorrow will be part of a fast emerging global
power, and yet will be linked to the glorious past of the mankind. This fact is
actually the core identity of our own India, the Incredible India!!
Photos: Frank Noble A.
